Travels With Buddha — 10.16 Dead Dog Beach, Coyote Bay, Bahia de Conception, near Mulege, Baja California Sur, Mexico

“All the federales say/ Could have had him any day / They only let him slip away / Out of kindness I suppose….”

I knew it was only a matter of time, I mean I couldn’t shelter him forever, before I was forced to introduce Buddha to my anejo compadre Sr. Jon Pier Azcona.

Jon Pieris a work of art. Half Swiss (the better half). Half Mexican (the more engaging half). Pier, as people call him, likes to have fun. Currently his idea of fun included a shopping spree in Monterrey, California and then several hours of trying to fit everything he bought in his Suburban, a utility trailer, and the back of my truck. This included two dogs (Jack and Annie), his mom (Arlene) and his lovely wife Norma (definitely HIS better half). They own a waterfront home on Coyote Bay, south of Mulege. In exchange for hauling his stuff and if all went well and I didn’t get arrested for smuggling at the border, and if I arrived early enough on New Year’s Day, I could watch the Ducks win the Rose Bowl on his 16 inch TV (if the satellite dish was working).

What a deal, Buddha says.

Actually, I say (and this is before he meets Pier) it IS a good deal. Because the thing about doing a favor for Pier, is that you get to hang out with Pier. And that simple act of tooling around with Azcona is not to be missed. Because nothing is ever simple with Jon Pier. Nothing is ever straight forward. There are always twists and turns to everything he does. Every movement is an adventure.

Which, eventually, is how we end up at Dead Dog Beach.

You probably don’t want to know how this beach got it’s name. But it is in a spectacular location. There is an islet across the bay from Pier’s house. It is sort of like a stone mushroom sticking up out of the water with barnacled basalt ledges surrounding it and rocky cliffs covered with bird guano. The water next to it is crystal clear in the shallows. What you can’t see from the road or the beach, is that the islet is slightly elongated to the east. Hidden on the north side of that part of there is a perfect crescent chunk taken out of the rocks. Sort of like a big shark bite. It makes a very nice sheltered bay within the bay and the shore is not steep but gently sloped and sandy. A perfect hideaway. This is Dead Dog Beach.

You will never find it unless someone tells you about it. Pier took us there in his boat. He says that in warmer weather all the Europeans from the free camp ground at Burro Bay come out here. They swim and frolic without the benefit of bathing suits.

I’d like to say this makes no impression on Buddha, but that would be false. As we drift along the beach in the boat I can hear him telling Pier he wants to live here. He’s done traveling, Buddha says. This is his spot forever.

The next morning, early before sunrise, I have the hardest time getting him back in the truck for the drive south…..